The Tradition of Papal Vestments: Inside Rome’s Historic Gammarelli Tailor Shop
The Tradition of Papal Vestments: Inside Rome’s Historic Gammarelli Tailor Shop
As the consistory of Pope Francis on December 7 approaches, the storied Roman tailor shop, Ditta Annibale Gammarelli, prepares once again to serve the Church’s most distinguished clergy.
Nestled near the Pantheon in Piazza di Santa Chiara, Ditta Annibale Gammarelli is no ordinary shop. Established in 1798, it has clothed popes, bishops, and cardinals with garments of the highest quality, tailored with unparalleled attention to detail. Operated by the Gammarelli family for over six generations, it remains a testament to Rome’s ecclesiastical heritage and craftsmanship.
Today, the family’s legacy is stewarded by Alessia Gammarelli, the first woman to lead the historic enterprise, alongside her cousins Massimiliano and Lorenzo. Their workshop is a treasure trove of tradition, filled with bolts of rich silks and brocades, meticulously crafted vestments, and historical memorabilia. Despite evolving liturgical practices, Alessia ensures the continuity of their artisanal methods: “We make all the garments here in our workshop, cutting and sewing everything ourselves.”
The shop’s iconic red storefront reflects the cardinalate's rich symbolism, featuring items like the zucchetto, cassock, and biretta. While some vestments have fallen out of common use, others, such as the Pope’s white cassocks, are crafted with great care. Alessia explains, “The vestments for the Pope are made with high-quality fabrics like pure wool and silk, reflecting the dignity of his office while aligning with his preference for simplicity.”
Ditta Annibale Gammarelli’s role extends beyond tailoring garments for daily use. In preparation for a papal conclave, the shop produces three white cassocks—small, medium, and large—to ensure the new Pope is vested immediately upon his election. This unique privilege highlights the shop’s enduring relationship with the Vatican.
Despite its prominence, maintaining this artisanal tradition is increasingly challenging. Alessia notes, “It’s difficult to find skilled artisans who continue this kind of work. Talented tailors and craftsmen are rare.” Nonetheless, the family remains committed to preserving their craft, producing approximately ten intricate projects weekly with a small team of 15 artisans.
Among their clients are clergy and laity alike, some of whom purchase zucchettos as gifts for the Pope. Alessia shares, “They hope to exchange them with the Holy Father’s own zucchetto—a touching gesture that bridges the faithful with the papacy.”
Ditta Annibale Gammarelli stands as a living symbol of the Church’s history, weaving faith and tradition into every thread. As Alessia and her family prepare for the consistory, they also look toward the future, determined to pass on their legacy to a new generation of artisans. In their hands, the sacred art of crafting papal vestments will continue to flourish, serving the Church and its leaders for years to come.
Learn more about this historic tailor family by watching this week’s episode of Vaticano on EWTN Norge. The feature provides an in-depth look at their enduring service to the Church and their unique role in papal history.
